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Antisocial personality disorder therapy/treatment paper Free Essays

As indicated by Hare and Hart (2005) Antisocial character issue is one of the psychological issue which comprise an enormous section of ment...

Wednesday, April 8, 2020

Aod Cross Member Essays - Gears, Mechanical Engineering,

Aod Cross Member AOD to T5 swap 1987-93 ********THIS IS NOT MY OWN PIECE, BUT IT IS A PIECE THAT I FOUND VERY HELPFUL Is your AOD giving you trouble? Want to get rid of that sludge box forever? Why don't you do an AOD to T5 swap! Finally, a place where you can get the low down on exactly what it takes to convert from an AOD to a Ford T5 transmission, step by step. First, lets look at what you'll need for the conversion. Note: The parts listed are for a T5 or T5Z transmission. Swapping to an aftermarket tranny (example: TKO, 3550, T56, etc.) will require a slightly different list of parts. These questions may be answered in the new Q&A list that is under developement. Things you'll need: Parts Starter index plate Bell housing/scatter shield Pivot ball T5/T5Z transmission Shifter Shifter knob Shifter weather seal Shifter boot Flywheel Clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch disc, and throw out bearing) Pilot bearing Clutch fork Clutch cable Clutch cable clip (secures the cable to the bell housing) Pedal Assembly Clutch quadrant Speedometer gear Back-up light harness (Ford part# E7ZZ-15525-A) T5 transmission cross member Exhaust hanger Bolts: Upper bell housing bolts (or washers to make up the extra length) Pressure plate bolts Starter plate to bell housing bolts Transmission to bell housing bolts Tools Torque wrench Complete socket set (standard and metric) Screw drivers (phillips and flat head) Assortment of wrenches (standard and metric) 12 point, 12mm socket (for the driveshaft) O2 sensor socket (optional) Extension(s) approx. 36 long Jack Jack stands Now that you have an idea on the parts and tools needed for the conversion, it's time to brake down the procedure. There are basically 2 parts: Under-the-car and inside-the-car. Under-the-car is the heavy, major conversion work. It's basically the removal of the AOD and the installation of the T5(Z). There is no real modification to be done. The only thing that need to be modified is the opening for the shifter. The metal is so thin that it can be bent upwards for clearance. The inside-the-car work is basically the installation of the clutch pedal, clutch cable, relocation of the speedometer cable, and removal of the AOD's shifter. Other factoids will be given as the conversion is spelled out. If after going through this you have any questions, please feel free to E-mail me at mailto:[emailprotected]?subject=AOD_to_T5_swap Inside-the-car The only reason that I suggest starting with the inside is so that you have room for the shifter when you install the transmission and something to hold on to the clutch fork when installing the T5. This will be more clear as you read the step by step instructions. Removal of the automatic pedal assembly Remove the front drivers seat. This will make removing the pedal assembly A LOT easier. Remove the plastic cover around the steering column and under the dash. Remove the hood release cable bracket. Lower the steering column. There are 4 nuts that support the steering column. As you are lowering the column, unplug the wires so that they get taught and support the column. Remove the nut and bolt from the top of the pedal assembly. Remove the brake booster rod from the brake pedal. Remove the 4 nuts on the back of the fire wall (brake booster nuts). The upper left nut is the hardest one to get to. If you look carefully, you can get a ratchet/extension/socket to remove it. Wiggle the pedal assembly out from under the dash. This is the hardest part. Take your time and try not to get upset. Take a breather or two if you are having trouble. Relocation of the speedometer cable and install of the clutch cable Remove the head light switch. Remove the hazard lights switch. Remove the gauge cluster cover. Remove the gauge cluster. There are 2 plugs and the speedometer cable holding it back. Don't force the gauge cluster away from the dash too hard. Pull the speedometer cable out from under the hood. Reinstall the speedometer cable through the other hole. If you look directly to the left of where the speedometer cable came out of, you'll see the hole where the speedometer cable needs to go through. Reinstall